Cathy Horyn in her New York Times article yesterday seemed delighted with the washed cotton “Casey Jones” style train conductor-style fabrics at both Altuzarra and Rag & Bone, two of the hottest design forces in the whole world if not the universe right now. She may be biased; we already knew about her thing for overalls. But I’m biased in that exact same direction AND I happen to have recently bought super cute jeans along these lines (see above), so I’m not complaining!
Joseph Altuzarra was completely in command, offering an imaginative take on the striped cotton fabric you associate with OshKosh overalls or Casey Jones’s cap. Striped cottons, washed to a supple lightness, have turned up in a number of collections. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville used them in a breezy Rag & Bone collection that included aproned skirts, lace-edged T-tops, and some terrific shirtdresses. (Someone on Twitter remarked that Rag & Bone’s layers brought back memories of early Girbaud shows. So true, but who doesn’t love pocket-y summer things?)
Mr. Altuzarra addressed an interesting problem: how to give spring tailoring the polish women like in fall clothes without using precious fabrics or a conventional lightweight option like crepe. And: how to maintain an edge of modernity so as not to turn the look into a suit. Sticking to his trim silhouette, Mr. Altuzarra’s solution was to combine a men’s classic blue shirt with a washed off-white cotton skirt in an extravagant blue Deco print, and to use the Casey Jones stripes for a variety of coats and jackets.
Majorly high praise from a woman who does not mince words and had, shall we say, less flattering things to say about Alexander Wang and Prabal Gurung’s collections. And while I love the striped cotton fabric we’re talking about here in pretty much any form, Altuzarra and Rag & Bone did some amazing things with it. I especially love the former’s jacket/cape and tailored jacket with the poufies (there is probably a more accurate name for these; also I want this jacket really freaking badly! It’s undone done perfection), and the latter’s tuxedo jacket. So fun. But I’ll also take old fashioned Osh Kosh overalls or jeans in a weathered stripe any day. Like I mentioned above, you lucky ladies can buy the ones above and below at Yoox for thirty-two-freaking dollars. That’s $32 i.e. practically free.